Update: Paulette’s Orange Blossom macaron is no longer green.
I am trying to write this piece about Paulette in a format that is more “to be considered” than review. The reason I say this is that A. I am not a professional critic, and B. the macaron is a very sensitive and personal subject amongst eaters/critics. It seems that any source has a fairly balanced mix of fantastic and horrendous reviews - seemingly based on the personal tastes and expectations of the reviewer. Some prefer a candy sweet shell filled with rich icing, others want a natural and light item that models a perfectly crisp exterior, and all will argue which is the truest or original. It is also a questionable item to directly rate, as its attributes are not only the flavor and appearance, but freshness, and for those who have enjoyed a macaron in France, nostalgic value. I have tried most of L.A.’s macarons, and those of Las Vegas as well, always expecting more than what I got. If only the brain could wrap itself around the fact that a macaron in Paris can’t be had anywhere else. If this seems too deep, simply Google a particular vendor and read its public reviews.
The macaron is a somewhat misunderstood item in America. Sure, it is a fairly simple thing that some worship and some (freaks) scoff at, but this isn’t as cut-and-dried as the other foodie/business trends that have swept L.A. (cupcakes, frozen “yogurt”). I won’t display my self importance by explaining what a macaron is, but Wikipedia has a great article that delivers the basics, you should also read the article pertaining to “macaroon” (a different item), which will set a few things straight.
Now to Paulette, I received a box of Paulette macarons very shortly after it opened, and was seriously excited at the concept of a macaron only boutique in Los Angeles. A place to escape the cars and smog, and close my eyes to see the lights of the Champs-Élysées (I told you this was a deep subject). Of course there is Boule, one of L.A.’s true gems, and Jin Patisserie, as well as a number of other places offering their own take on Macarons, but Paulette was dedicated. A collaboration between macaron lover Paulette Koumetz, and much lauded French pastry chef Christophe Michalak. No bread, no cakes, no chocolates or overpriced kitchen tools - just macarons. The day old box was good, a little crunchy, a little creamy, maybe too perfumey, but good. Finally, I made it to the boutique on Charleville, right off Beverly Drive. This place has the aesthetic aspect down. Not cutesy, or leaning on excessive French references, the space is almost clinical and just California enough to make sense. Thank Andrea Lenardin Madden, a Viennese architect (also responsible for the retail location of Sprinkles). There isn’t much room to sit down and enjoy, just a little bar, but this is a strict kind of place, sort of a showroom for the macarons - do what you want with them when you leave. It is almost visually overwhelming to decide which to try, the colors are bordering on neon, and some are almost scarily unnatural looking. As far as flavors, there is a wide selection, classic and a few unusual. The Madagascar vanilla is rich and delicious, more powerful than Boule’s Tahitian vanilla, but not as delicate. Caramel was perfect, though this is the one macaron that is never like the others because of the unique texture the caramel adds. The bright green “orange blossom” was interesting, the combination of this color and a heavily perfumed and slightly cloying flavor would be much more logically executed using the delicate notes, instead of this concentrated version. My favorite was the “almond wedding”, a nice balance between nutty and sweet, and such a classic flavor and texture. I don’t think this place is as disappointing as some people online have described, you can be sure I will return. The macaron interiors were not too gummy, and these macarons did seem very fresh, although also very sweet. The macaron business is a testy one, you never know what to expect. Boule is unpredictable as far as dryness, but a different atmospheric experience, Jin offers baby macarons, an easy way to savor their flavor. If only these fantastically visual places could always offer unvarying texture and flavors as clean and inspired. The macaron is one of the few items I will err on the side of “settling” with. After all, we are talking about an ALL macaron store.
Paulette
9466 Charleville Boulevard at Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.275.0023
Shannon says:
January 11th, 2008 at 1:38 pmHi David,
My name is Shannon and I’m the editorial assistant at Foodbuzz.com. I am very impressed with the quality of your posts and to that end, I’d like to invite you to be a part of our newly launched Foodbuzz Featured Publisher program. I would love to send you more details about the program, so if you are interested, please email me at Shannon@foodbuzz.com.
And I completely agree with you of the subjectivity of macaroons. What some might find perfectly lovely others abhor. But I guess that’s the fun and art to making such a cookie. It can come in many forms and be just as delicious as the next, but with completely different shapes, densities, and textures. I think we should start an international macaroon festival. Thoughts? =)
Cheers!
Shannon Eliot
Editorial Assistant, Foodbuzz.com
shannon@foodbuzz.com
Erik M. says:
January 12th, 2008 at 7:06 pmThank you for the information on Paulette. I just moved to the neighbourhood, and I’ve eyed this shopfront a number of times now; you’ve made me anxious to pay a visit.
Oh, be sure to add LA Mill in Silver Lake to your list of macaron purveyors. Yesterday–opening day–I was offered a delicious Hong Kong Milk Tea-flavoured variant at the conclusion of service.
E.M.
David says:
January 13th, 2008 at 6:39 pmErik-
I visited LA Mill the day after you (second day open), and there was not a macaron in sight. Hopefully next time!
Foodie Froggy says:
January 15th, 2008 at 8:54 amDavid, writing “macaron” with a double “o” is totally forbidden ! Here, in Paris, you could go to jail for that !! ;-))
By the way, I just had 6 Ladurée macarons an hour ago !! Jealous ??
David says:
January 15th, 2008 at 9:15 amAnne-
I am jealous! And about the double o, tell that to any English spell check program!
Florian Bellanger says:
February 5th, 2008 at 7:54 amHi Guys ,
It was a great satisfaction to see all of you totally passionate about Macarons, I am Florian Bellanger the Chef and Founder of “Mad Mac” The Authentic French Macarons and Madeleines , maybe some of you heard about us , we are based in NJ , and Manufacture 14 Flavors of Macarons and 4 Flavors of Madeleines .
we are available online at www.MadMacNYC.com , and very present in food service distribution , you might have tasted our products all ready without knowing it (Ritz Carlton, Casinos, Clubs and Restaurants).
Shannon talked about doing an International Macarons Festival …Shannon , if you do so …count me in for sure.
Foodie Froggie mentioned the double “O” …she is right …please avoid the double “O” on the word “Macaron” otherwise , it get confusing with the coconut Macaroon.
Best to all of you , and wish you a sweet Macaron Journey.
Florian
dedee says:
April 8th, 2008 at 11:04 amhi…! guy’s how are you my name is’dedee”
i ever come to you store and i buy some also i think you macaroon is so amazing . and i have question . im thinking im going to open the restaurant and bakery also do you is imposible if i can order with you with retail price ?! and maybe you have different opinion please let me now i really appreciate thank you so much ! and you have good day . my regard ”dedee”
MariannaF says:
May 7th, 2008 at 4:13 amCool, your review was interesting. I had initially read about Paulette on Christophe Michalak’s blog, as he was introducing and describing his project of this macaron place in L.A. I live in Paris and we have Laduree and Hermé yes, but when I saw what him & the team managed to do by “exporting” the macaron concept to L.A. I almost become jealous and wished we had a Paulette here too!! From the photos I’ve seen it looks like a v.cool place!! The one that captured my attention the most was the almond wedding one and it seems you had a good impression on it!!
Nathalie says:
June 9th, 2008 at 11:59 pmHello
I tried some macarons which company name is Pat à Choux. What a taste!!
shawn says:
July 3rd, 2008 at 7:40 amthank you for the info, I am a devotee of macarons, brought back a big box from Laduree last November and ate one a day religiously. Nobody mentioned Boule on La Cienega, they also make great macarons
Stephane says:
August 27th, 2008 at 1:33 amHas anyone tried the Macarons from MyBoulangerie.com ? It’s a small online boutique and their macarons are really excellent, delicately crisp on the outside with perfect flavor & texture on the inside, not “perfumy” the way many ambitious over-the-top variations often are. I received some as a gift last Christmas and have been ordering ever since — in fact, the owner set up a monthly plan just for me! I grew up in France and these are just plain authentic. Would love to hear anyone else’s experience with Macarons from MyBoulangerie…