Terroni is the buzz of Los Angeles food bloggers, and my first experience lived up to the hype this place has.

In the former home of Authentic Café, Terroni has opened its second location (first being in Toronto), and allowed Angelenos to partake in the somewhat famous menu. The décor is a mix and match situation, that manages to feel cozy without being shabby. The bar, anchored by a gorgeous giant of an espresso machine, would be a great place to get a glass of wine, and chandeliers hanging throughout the space provide nice warmth. The dining area is fitted with Eames chairs that fit in perfectly on Beverly Blvd., but the lighting, projected film, and artwork hold a rustically elegant sort of atmosphere. Terroni feels like a downtown city place, almost sort of San Francisco. A semi-visible kitchen is not typically relaxing, but here it adds to the Italian-style comfort, while also being able to keep an eye on cleanliness and production. Apparently the noise level grows very seriously as the night progresses, so if you are interested in a more relaxed atmosphere, eat early.

If you have not heard, Terroni has a strict “no substitutions, no modifications” policy that seems to preface anything else said about the restaurant. In a city full of people on special diets, used to customization to their exact needs, I think this policy is excellent. It gives Terroni the opportunity to not only operate more efficiently, but to serve the food as described. There is a big enough selection on the menu that if you are a vegetarian or have some sort of special needs, they can be accommodated. The restaurant also accepts no reservations, so beware on the weekends.

Terroni’s pasta and sausage are handmade, and the dishes, as simple as they may be, seem to be perfected. The flavors are authentic and also filling, without being run of the mill quality Italian. As an appetizer, the Ricotta-Stuffed Squash Blossoms (special) are delicious, and the delicate coating sets them apart from the generic. The much lauded pizza, which many claim is the closest to authentic southern Italian pies, is served uncut, according to Italian tradition. Though I wasn’t completely blown away, I can vouch that the Margherita, such a simple ensemble of ingredients, is very well executed, with a thin, crispy crust. In addition to the serious selection of Italian named pizza topping combinations, there are many pasta options, salads, as well as a chalkboard of specials, including main courses. Of the pastas, Spaghetti al Limone, with spinach, capers, Parmigiano Reggiano, and of course lemon, is really a hit. It is a little on the sour side, but the flavor goes a long way for this sort of light dish. For dessert, you have to try the sharable tiramisu; it is cold, creamy and served in a mini casserole dish. The menu prices are very reasonable for this caliber of food and atmosphere.

The service was acceptable for an early evening, though I have yet to see it when the restaurant is slammed. Throughout the night two different people exchanged jobs, back and forth as servers - but they both knew what was going on.

I will spare you the comparisons to Mozza, and I would ignore anyone telling you they are exactly alike. If you are in the mood for comforting Italian food, and don’t mind a short wait, Terroni is a fantastic addition to the area’s restaurant scene.

Terroni
7605 Beverly Blvd., Mid-City
323.954.0300