Spago is one of the few names in the Los Angeles restaurant world that has managed to exist (and keep its reputation) for more than just a couple of years. Even though the original location closed many years ago, Spago Beverly Hills is very much alive and well. And although Wolfgang Puck is now a worldwide empire, you feel a certain intimacy at the restaurant. On a Saturday at noon, the restaurant was full. Full of the expected crowd, Beverly Hills ladies celebrating a birthday, playmate types letting the men order, tourists with the extra cash to spend, and more than all of these stereotypes, those that just enjoy fantastic food. Before I tell you how great Spago was for lunch, I will admit that the décor is not exactly my thing. The courtyard, indoor/outdoor feel with imported olive trees and California sunshine is great. The ugly (though comfortable) chairs, employee uniform, and 90s Hollywood vibe just seem dated. Along the same lines of a 1976 television set in a mansion, it doesn’t make sense, but somehow works. Maybe it’s just the food talking, trying to compensate for the splashes of purple, teal, and yellow everywhere you turn.

Even though the restaurant was brimming with people, there was no lack of timely and excellent service. The option of having your portion of the dish plated and the serving dishes removed was offered each time a new plate was served. It may seem like a small gesture, but goes a long way when you have an unmanageable table full of plates. As expected in a restaurant of this caliber, the courtesy and protocol of service manners is followed strictly but still comfortably.

for more photos »

There is a great selection on the lunch menu for any palate. Although pizza is the restaurants crowning achievement, the other options were too tempting. I must also include that the bread delivered with drinks was delicious. I find that a lot of L.A. restaurants manage to bring nicely presented bread that tastes like it has been waiting under a counter for 2 days to be served.

There were two of us so we decided to try a few things. The dishes are very accommodating to this scenario, even when you have several people, as the portions aren’t tiny. We started with the Roasted Chino Farm Beet Layer Cake which is little layered wedges of beets, sautéed goat cheese, and micro greens, drizzled with shallot-citrus dressing - perfect, though I will admit I had tried this before and knew it had to be ordered! There were plenty, even extras on the plate. Next was the Kärtner Käse Nudeln Giant Farmers Cheese Ravioli, big name indeed. It was beyond expectation…big scalloped ravioli filled with goat cheese, mascarpone, parmesan, mint, chervil and sauced in hazelnut brown butter. Surprisingly filling, intensely flavored, and on the heavy side (in a good way), it was really good. The main part of the meal was Calzone with Prosciutto Di Parma, somehow on the menu I managed to miss the fact that this included Prosciutto but this wasn’t a problem. It was giant, casual, and cooked to the point of perfection (as in that invaluable little bit of burnt black crust). The inside was smoldering and cheesy with mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan, it was served with a rich marinara for dipping. Finally the dessert - we tried the famous “bittersweet chocolate”. It is a delicate, hard crepe style purse shell, filled with molten chocolate soufflé/cake, it is hard to describe the interior because I’m still not sure if it was a liquid or solid. Every bite was rich and delicious, helped out by the raspberry coulis with whole berries and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. I really appreciated the meringue pedestal the ice cream rested on. I think little touches like this give the casualness of the food at Spago the allowance to be included in the ranks of other meaningful cuisine. The prices aren’t low, but the quality of food/service isn’t either. It was about $100 for two, without wine. Obviously the prices are higher for dinner, but for a full lunch and dessert the prices aren’t excessive. Overall, if you have never tried Spago, it is worth a go. Try a few things, enjoy the patio, and report back.

Spago Beverly Hills
Executive Chef, Lee Hefter
Chef de Cuisine, Thomas Boyce

176 North Canon Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.385.0880