I have been meaning to try Julienne for a couple of years, and am actually embarrassed to say I hadn’t been until this past weekend. Considering it is located in what I think is one of the last best places around Los Angeles (San Marino), I will now be visiting as often as possible.

At first sight, Julienne is a nice looking, indoor/outdoor California style sidewalk café. But once you get inside, it‘s like another world. You can dine inside, on the expansive patio, or in a private library style dining room. There is also a full market with a huge collection of food goods - frozen, fresh to take home, and high end brands of candy and jarred goods - pretty much anything you can imagine, even soap. I’m hard to impress, and was astonished by this place. Don’t let the “ladies who lunch” vibe distract you. Sure, I could do without the excessive wall fabrics and taxidermy display, but when it comes to food - Julienne has it right.

Julienne serves just breakfast and lunch, 6 days a week. Or, in the market, you can pick up dinner to take home. You may have to wait a few minutes for a table at lunch, but this time is well spent perusing the market and deciding what to purchase after you eat. The service does seem a little rushed, though it didn’t appear to have an effect on the food. The staff is more dignified than your average sidewalk café, and they seem to be familiar with the dishes on the menu. Before ordering, a plate of apparently famous rosemary raisin bread is delivered, the bread is soft, and so is the butter that comes with it. This is a simple surprise that gives Julienne easy points, as I am tired of trying to soften individually wrapped, cold butter by tucking it deeply into the bread basket. The flavor is delicious and homey, and an interesting alternative to crusty bread.

The lunch menu is broad, but doesn’t try too hard. In an environment like this, you might expect the menu to stretch itself into unfamiliar cuisine, though most menu items are casual, and just refined enough. There is undoubtedly something available for everyone’s taste. On this visit, we ordered two entrees. The soup and half sandwich combination - the soup du jour was carrot ginger, and for a sandwich, I chose the Pan Bagna. Their version of this traditionally Provençal sandwich was roasted vegetables and mozzarella, served on rustic bread. The soup was a perfect consistency, and garnished with fresh chives. Also ordered was the Roasted Lemon Herb Half-Chicken served with sautéed baby spinach and pommes frites. Everything on the plate was fantastic. The chicken was moist and well prepared, the spinach was smoky and not over-cooked, and the fries were well seasoned, oven-style. A dessert tray is presented with the daily selections, and the banana cream and coconut tart was chosen. A base of banana cream with slices of banana, a cloud of real whipped cream and toasted coconut, all within a rich golden crust; this was the perfect conclusion to a delicious lunch.

If you are there on a Saturday, be prepared to face the crowds in the small but fully stocked market. On the shelves, you will find an overflowing selection of oils, honey, food gifts, and any other gourmet necessity one can think of. There are also sections for frozen and refrigerated food to go, as well as a full-service counter with all the makings of a delicious picnic, lunch, or dinner.

The crowd at Julienne is a far cry from the oversized sunglasses and cell phone set of Hollywood, and Mission Street is about as far as you can get from Melrose - both good reasons to go. In just one visit, Julienne has catapulted itself into my ever-changing list of favorite places.

If you are in the Los Angeles area, San Marino, which is close to Pasadena, is worth the drive. The Mission Street neighborhood has a small collection of businesses perfect for browsing, and the setting is well groomed and scenic. It is also a great pre-stop to the superb Huntington Library & Gardens, just a couple of minutes away.

Julienne
2651 Mission Street
San Marino, California 91108
626.441.2299