Over the past couple of years, this country has become obsessed with gourmet salt. There have been articles, recipes, even books written regarding the subject. It seems like everywhere you look, there is mention of the newest exotic variation. Rightly so, because when used properly, these salts can add just the right compliment to a dish. For this article, I will write about just one salt, fleur de sel (“flower of salt” in French). I’m sure some readers are well aware of this salt’s importance and origin, but it’s a complex subject, and if you aren’t familiar, maybe this can help explain what all the fuss is about.

Fleur de sel is a sea salt that is hand-harvested by removing only the top layer of salt before it sinks to the bottom of salt evaporation ponds, called salt pans. This salt is harvested under specific weather conditions by Paludiers, salt farmers in France. In Guérande, harvesting like this has taken place for over a thousand years, originally by the Celts. True fleur de sel comes from Guérande, though there are different varieties from different regions of France and even a few from other countries. The origins of fleur de sel you will most likely find available in the States are Guérande, Camargue, and Île de Ré. There is much debate about which of these offers the superior salt, though they each exhibit excellent qualities. Fleur de Sel de Guérande is mineral-rich, moister, and slightly courser than Fleur de Sel de Camargue, which is drier and flake-like in consistency. Fleur de Sel d’Île de Ré is a delicate, more refined variation. Recently, “flor de sal”, a non-French version harvested in the Algarve region of Portugal, has been gaining popularity. This salt has the advantage of a much lower price, and it is also pure white.

As far as geography, Guérande is located in Brittany, a large peninsula in the northwest of France, between the English Channel to the north and the Bay of Biscay to the south. Île de Ré is an island off the west coast of France, near La Rochelle. And Camargue is located in the South of France, south of Arles, between the Mediterranean Sea and the two arms of the River Rhône delta. The Camargue is Western Europe’s largest river delta.

Fleur de Sel, depending on the type, can run in prices upwards of $20 per pound, but because it is sold in small quantities and usually only a pinch will be used, it’s a reasonable investment. If you find an unbelievable rate on fleur de sel, be wary, apparently some salts are being falsely advertised. Also, always purchase from a reputable source as some salt’s origin is questionable.

The qualities of fleur de sel lend themselves beautifully to many foods. Alone, it is more delicate and earthy than table salt; some varieties are even described as having faint floral or violet notes. It is also lower in sodium content, and richer in trace elements and minerals than table salt. Fleur de sel’s consistency and texture is far superior in dressing dishes than the little round granules you may be used to. The presence of a fine salt like this sharpens the taste buds and enhances the natural flavors of whatever you’re eating.

Instead of a recipe addition for cooking, Fleur de Sel is best used like a condiment, sprinkled in places where its subtle flavors can be appreciated. Unfortunately, fleur de sel loses some of its finer characteristics when dissolved or mixed into something for cooking. It is delicious sprinkled on salad, vegetables, with bread and unsalted butter, and even in places as seemingly unusual as chocolate. The light floral notes in Fleur de Sel really shine when used to contrast the depth and rich flavors of things like chocolate or caramel.

If you are a salt skeptic, and think that salt is salt, try fleur de sel - you will be pleasantly surprised and find yourself using it often.